March 2003 - Wintering in Rio

December 11, 2002- March 14, 2003, Rio de Janeiro

A perception of physical well being. Afternoons at Farme, the
gay beach in Ipanema, being part of the crowd, swimming
far out alone in the cold water, sometimes all the way to
Arporador, then walking the shoreline back, catching the sun
and never giving it back again. Two, maybe three deft hacks
with a machete and a cold coconut is up for refreshment. Or
maybe a cold beer to go with the lip-burning hot salty
buttered corn on the cob . Comfortable on the bus or
walking wherever in a speedo, lots of guys doing the same.
Not feeling fear but knowing I'm vulnerable. Being lucky.
Farmer/street markets and stocking the refrigerator with
watermelon, pineapple, mango, avocado, papaya, tomato,
cheese, gapes, cashews and mortadela. Outside, something
tasty waiting whenver.

Being brutally honest, not caring about what happens as a
result of what i did or am doing. Enjoying what i can and not
caring about what i miss. Deeply aware of the gulf between
cultures, yet trying to understand. Something in me is
deeply connected to this place. Strange, but in this so social
culture, still I'm content alone.

Dancing, along with the sea, my favorite of all. Inside the
cool, unsurpassed sophistication of the dark bodies, where
the music is a sensual Charme, a hiphop concoction of
choreography where in unison the crowd, especially the guys,
perform faultlessly. Outside the street samba block parades,
the muscularity of the males, the so thin waists and the
smooth round heads and beautiful skin , contagious mile
wide smiles. The girls and women controlling it all, the
strong sensual warm center from which comfort flows.

I feel like the city itself- under construction constantly, a
sidewalk remade countless times, the same small pavers
re-hammered into new positions in the old design. Inside
me, like outside, the inequalities, the normality of the
unacceptable, tension. But a genuine desire for peace and
good heart. Its not always a party, but when it is it feels
timeless. Life is lived in the moment. There is faith in the
future.

Meanwhile a thousand little barbeques are scenting the
streets, energy flows, the beaches and parks full, the ball
games played late into the night every night. Tomorrow my
friend will be a stranger, but tonight we swim together in the
clear dark water lapping the base of the mountainous rock
called SugarLoaf.

.............................................

"Val" (below) was one of three paintings completed while in Rio. The palette was totally new for me, using a brilliant red
underpainting, and then letting orchid, lavender, sienna, cerulean blue and payne's gray subdue the effect. Making space and time for these paintings came at a high price.. Rio during Carnaval is not exactly the place and time to 'work' at anything, ...but, all said and done, I really loved seeing this painting happen.